As i wrote in Kawari’s previous post, specifically in the “TODO” notes, it was already clear that this little job of trust had to be done.

The modifications to the C64 case that were made after removing the RF modulator to make room for the S-Video/Composite Bypass are as follows:

• Put the female Mini DIN MD8 connector (RGB + SYNC + AUDIO + SCART SWITCH) into the antenna hole and secure it with a ring i printed.
• Enlarge the RF modulator channel switch hole to make room for the female HDMI panel connector and secure it with two screws.

I have nothing else to say; the photos speak for themselves and say much more than what i could write and what no one will ever read.

Gallery:

12►

Before i leave you to the description of the Kawari VIC-II card, i just wanted to say that i was very surprised by its features and compatibility.
I’ve tested the Kawari VIC-II with dozens of demos and some old and new games. Everything works perfectly and i haven’t encountered any problems.

VIC-II Kawari is a hardware replacement project for the VIC-II (Video Interface Chip II) found in Commodore 64 home computers.
In addition to being compatible with the original VIC-II 6567/6569 chips, some cool extra features are also available.

This project is meant to replace video chips found in breadbins. A C64-C replacement for the 8562/8565 is not (yet) available.

The PCB interfaces with a real C64 address and data bus through the VIC-II socket on a C64 motherboard.

The board can replace all the functions of a real VIC-II chip including DRAM refresh, light pen interrupts, PHI2 clock source for the CPU and, of course, video output. (NOTE: Light pens would only work on a real CRT using composite.) 

Features:

• Accurately reproduces VIC-II graphics functions.
• Can replace VIC-II 6567/6569 in bread bin models.
• No VSP bug.
• S/LUM + Chroma output.
• Configurable colour palette (for preference and programming)
• Easily switch between PAL and NTSC video standards (software or hardware switch, our boards come pre-set to PAL)
• Four chip models supported (6567R56A, 6567R8, 6569R1, 6569R3)
• Can bypass broken clock circuits.
• Eliminates white line on composite/s-video upscalers.
• DVI (via micro-HDMI connector) and analog RGB (large board only)
• 64K of additional video RAM.
• New graphics capabilities* (80 cols, hi-res, math, blitter and more…)
• Can be flash updated with new firmware.
• It’s not an almost 40 year old device that may fail at any time.

Output Video:

• DVI – Micro HDMI.
• Analog RGB+cS+HV.
• Luma/Chroma/Composite.

Limitations:

• Dot clock is not propagated to Pin 6 of cartridge port when using on-board oscillators
• Large board HDMI port not easily accessible unless RF sheild removed
• Board can be powered by HDMI monitors requiring monitor to be powered off
• ‘Native’ motherboard clock circuit not suitable for generating HDMI (sometimes)

Work in progress on my c64:

• Replace the RF modulator with the S-Video/Composite Bypass.
• Install two output connectors for the HDMI and RGB video signals + Audio.

VIC-II Kawari – COMPOSITE-CRT Gallery:

VIC-II Kawari – HDMI Gallery:

VIC-II Kawari – RGB-CRT Gallery:

VIC-II Kawari – RGB-OSSC-HDMI Gallery:

VIC-II Kawari – SOFTWARE Gallery:

VIC-II Kawari – RGB-OSSC-HDMI Video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/6SFE-y3EEh0?feature=share

source: 

• https://github.com/randyrossi/vicii-kawari
• https://accentual.com/vicii-kawari
• https://videogameperfection.com/products/vic-ii-kawari

The Cartridge PiRTO II DUO made by Aotta is the new version of the PiRTO II multicart for Mattel Intellivision based now on a Raspberry Pi Pico2 for using double RAM.

This version support Intellivision bin+cfg games, including the JLP acceleration and savegames features.

Here are some improvements that i have made to the PiRTO-II Duo cartridge cover:

• Reduced the hole for inserting the Mini SD Card. (Unless you have fingers big as sausages, you can easily remove and insert the Mini SD Card. I’ve seen much worse situations)
• Added new PCB support bracket. (When inserting the Mini SD Card, the PCB flexed downward)
• Added hole for the Raspberry Pi Pico2 button. (Useful for updating the PiRTO-II Duo without opening the cartridge)
• Added hole for the USB connector. (Useful for updating the PiRTO-II Duo without opening the cartridge)
• Increased thickness of the front/top internal cartridge support.
• Slightly narrowed the hole for resetting/restarting the cartridge to use the button cover.

Gallery:

Download STL Files: PiRTO-II Duo reMixed Cartridge Case by Xad/Nightfall (52)

source: https://github.com/aotta/PiRTOIIDuo

The best looking PLA replacement chip for Commodore 64 designed by Pasi Lassila, compatible with all board revisions and all cartridge types (Zaxxon,Epyx Fastload etc)

Programming the PLA is very simple but you need to build your own programmer and purchase an inexpensive FT232H interface (about 7 euros) from AliExpress.

Components for building the programmer:

• 12.0mm Pogo pin.
• Female pin header connector.
• Switch.
• BLU LED (optional).
• Male pin header connector for connecting the programmer.
• Small perforated PCB.

The assembly instructions are published by the project author on GitHub.

The neatPLA was assembled by JLCPCB for a total cost (including shipping and taxes) of 8 euros each.

Gallery:

source: https://github.com/1c3d1v3r/neatPLA

After my previous 3D print of the Commodore 1541-II floppy drive front cover, i wanted to fix some internal aspects of the front cover that i felt causing glitches in the print.

I also wanted to try printing diagonally with a few supports, and i have to say that the result is definitely better than the previous one.

Download: Commodore 1541-II Frontcover Fixed v3 (STL) (85)

I thank my friend Andrea for giving me a selection of fantastic PCB of game cartridges for Commodore 64.

Gallery:

I was commissioned to do this little job of trust, the repair of a SHARP MZ-800 that had the following problems.

• The composite video RCA connector was torn out.
• The cassette counter reset button was broken.

After several attempts to glue the broken pieces back together and not finding anyone online who had designed it, i decided to make it myself from scratch and print it, for such a small size, the result is quite good.

Regarding the missing RCA connector, i installed a new one by soldering it directly on the modulator chassis.

Gallery:

Download: Reset Button TAPE Recorder Sharp MZ-800 by Xad (133)

Although i’ve already modified an original VideoPAC game cartridge to fith the PicoPAC by A. Ottaviani, i also wanted to try the 3D-designed case by Yannick Erb but i have modified a few things that i didn’t like.

The final result is good.

Here are the modifications i made to Yannick Erb’s case:

• Enlarged the hole to fith the button cover.
• Hole for the firmware update button.
• PicoPAC logo using VideoPAC fonts (there is also a version with a colored logo)
• Guides to lock the top cover so it can’t be lifted or moved left or right.

Gallery:

Download: PicoPAC Cartridge Case by Yannick Erb mixed by Xad (136)

Source: https://github.com/aotta/PicoPAC

A few months ago, i printed 3D the MOS 6581 LightBox but out of laziness i hadn’t yet installed a home automation LED strip.

I’ll leave you with the photos, there’s no point in describing what seems obvious :D

Gallery:

The print of the case for the Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Harlequin version has been finished with a total print time of 23 hours (slow print mode), including filament drying.

These are the changes made to the original designs:

• The feet on the bottom of the case have been removed to avoid the need supports; non-slip feet can now be applied without any problems.
• The depth of the square hole on the front panel for the Commodore logo has been reduced.
• Removed the POWER and DRIVE text on the faceplate embossed and not printing correctly with a new carved text.
• The hole on the front panel for the MeGALoDOS OLED has been closed.
• Commodore label for the front panel.

Link original project:

• https://www.printables.com/model/516220-frontcover-for-commodore-1541-ii-with-megalodos-mu
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3348655
• https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5349480

Gallery:

Download: STL files for Commodore Floppy Drive 1541-II Case (184) (FIXED Download LINK)

I needed a volume control lever for one of my NMS-1515 recorders. I couldn’t find a ready-made STL, so i designed it myself.

I’ve published the STL on major 3D object sites: thingiverse.com, makerworld.com, printables.com, makeronline.com and many others.

3D printing settings:

• Printer Used: Anycubic Kobra S1 Combo
• Filament: Anycubic PLA+
• Color: Black
• Sparse infill density: 50%
• Skirt Loops: 2
• Layer Height: 0.16mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Preset: 0.16mm HQ
• Ironing: All top surface
• Support: Tree (auto)

Download: Volume Lever Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) STL (156)

I made some modifications to the case for A. Ottaviani PiRTO-II cartridge.

I modified the case redesigned by Eskimo, which is essentially a MIX with some improvements to the A. Ottaviani case.

Not satisfied, i created another MIX by modifying the following:

• Removed the tab just below the female USB-C connector. I had already made this modification previously because all the USB-C cables i have available don’t fit; they hit the tab.
• Plugged the LED hole, which i find absolutely HORRIBLE. Since the LED is on the PCB and not flush with the case, it would need to be placed with a piece of fiber optic fiber the same diameter as the hole, which i will never do. Also, the LED is clearly visible if you use a colored filament from the case with a 50% fill.
• A hole for upgrading the firmware without opening the case. Remember that self-tapping screws on the PLA have a short lifespan. 
• MENU button hole was enlarged to include a cover, which makes the whole thing nice.

Download: PiRTO-II Xad Remixed STL Cartridge Case (213)

source: github.com/aotta/PiRTOII

I tried for the first time this circuit to mod the Atari 2600 to have a Composite video output and S-Video instead of RF.

I must say that this modification really amazed me, and i’ve made several others, all very similar for the Atari 2600.

The signal is clean (crystal clear) with both outputs (composite or S-Video), and installation is very simple.

Just place the PCB on the TIA pins (solder side) and solder; no need to remove anything.

I made two different modifications: one with only composite video and the other one with S-Video output as well.

For the version with the composite video output, i always used the same system of installing a 3.5mm female jack in the antenna connector hole (requires removal of the RCA RF plug), everything perfectly secured with a 3D-printed adapter.

For the version with Composite video and SVIDEO output, i used a female mini-DIN, the same one found on the SEGA SATURN.
I soldered the connector’s metal casing to the ground of the RCA RF connector after removing it and also isolated a trace of the RF signal PCB (center RCA pin) that made contact with the metal casing by removing a resistor.

The cable used is the same as the SEGA SATURN; it has dual outputs: RCA AUDIO, RCA COMPOSITE VIDEO, and SVIDEO. I had to cut a strip of about 0.5mm from the plastic casing of the mini-DIN connector to make it fit perfectly in the antenna hole of the Atari 2600 JR.

Gallery with only Composite Video Output:

Gallery with both Composite and Svideo Video Output:

12►

source: https://retrosix.co.uk/Atari-2600-CleanComp-Composite-Video-Out-p537997297

3D printing and replacement of the pulverized gears on the Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) cassette deck.

I decided to print the gears because are available for download on the Thingiverse website.

I modified the hole diameter which was too narrow and added a fastening system for the two fast-forward gears to avoid using supports during 3D printing.

The fastening system is nothing more than a washer of the right thickness and hole diameter that must be pressed firmly into the pin protruding from the gear until it fits.

The final result is good and works, but the gears are quite noisy; it’s still a homemade print and has nothing to do with the original Teflon or Nylon gears.

Some information about 3D printing settings:

• Printer Used: Bambulab A1 Mini
• Filament: ESUN PLA+
• Color: Orange
• Sparse infill density gears: 50%
• Sparse infill density washer: 90%
• Skirt Loops: 3
• Layer Height: 0.1mm
• Nozzle Diameter: 0.4mm
• Preset: 0.16mm HQ

Gallery:

12►

Download: Philips NMS-1515 (D6450) Gears STL (195)

I received the Atari 2600 “Dark Vader” version for repair.

The problem was a black screen and since it had happened several times before i was sure the 6504 CPU was dead but in this case is the TIA dead.

I also made a composite video mod by removing the RF modulator and a couple of components. I used a 3.5mm female jack as the audio/video output, which is less invasive than two female RCA.

Gallery: